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ARETEX: The new REP system for textiles must take clothes out of the landfill and incinerator
Romania risks missing the chance to build an efficient textile waste system if the future Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) mechanism does not directly support reuse and recycling. The Romanian Association for Textile Reuse and Recycling (ARETEX) asks the authorities for clear targets, public data, and funding that covers real on-the-ground costs.
In a letter sent to the institutions involved in the transposition of the new European legislation, the association states that the central objective of the REP system for textiles must be the real increase in the percentage of textiles reused and recycled from the total placed on the market.
ARETEX proposes minimum targets of 25% for the period 2026–2029 and 40% for 2030–2035. These percentages target the total amount of textiles introduced annually to the Romanian market. In the absence of firm objectives, industry representatives say, the flows risk continuing to end up in incineration or landfilling.
“The REP system must be designed to encourage reuse and recycling. Without a clear picture of the flows, its performance cannot be measured accurately. We need clear public data, committed objectives, and a financial mechanism that supports operators investing in reuse and recycling,” says Zoltán Gündisch, president of ARETEX.
Public data and clear rules for OIREP
The association insists on transparency. Authorities should collect and publish updated data on the quantities of textiles collected separately, the method of collection, and the final destination: reuse, recycling, incineration, or landfilling.
Another sensitive point is the role of the organizations responsible for transferring responsibility. In ARETEX's opinion, they should manage the funds collected from producers, not directly control the waste flows. The stake is to avoid dominant positions and maintain fair competition.
The association also warns about the risk of competition based on tariffs. If multiple organizations were to operate in parallel, they could artificially lower fees to attract producers. In this scenario, the funds would no longer cover the real costs of collection and sorting.
ARETEX also supports the introduction of modulated fees based on the circularity performance of textile products. At the same time, it demands firm measures against producers who do not register in the REP systems.
“The industry has the capacity to support a functional system. We have more sorting centers and more reuse points than in previous years. Therefore, the financial mechanism must support real on-the-ground activities. Otherwise, the system will not have the expected effects,” adds Zoltán Gündisch.
Growing capacity, still an uncertain framework
ARETEX's position comes against the backdrop of the expanding infrastructure in the sector. According to data gathered from 10 members of the association, in 2025 more than 6,500 tons of textile waste were collected in Romania. Of this quantity, 5,220 tons were sorted for reuse or recycled.
The number of sorting centers increased from four to seven in just one year. The industry thus conveys that it is ready to deliver results for the circular economy.
ARETEX brings together over ten companies in the field, with a combined turnover of over 50 million euros and approximately 1,000 green jobs. At the European level, the organization is involved in legislative consultations alongside EuRIC Textiles.
However, for investments to become sustainable, sector representatives demand a predictable framework. Without clear rules and adequate funding, the industry warns, the new REP system risks remaining just a paper obligation, not a real tool for taking textiles out of the landfill and incinerator.
